Thee Established Is More Than a Skin + Bodycare Brand, It’s a Lifestyle
As told by founder Essence Iman.
The topic of Black-owned beauty brands is a multi-faceted and layered discussion, especially in today's political + social climate. These conversations are becoming more and more nuanced as we get into deeper aspects beyond just the products themselves. Subjects such as the pricing strategies, aesthetics and functionality of packaging, financial backing and funding behind these brands and who their target demo’s are, are all essential points that form the foundation of these discussions.
When you bring the word luxury into the mix, things can become a bit awkward and uncomfortable — especially as it relates to Black-owned brands. Maybe it’s post slave trauma, but somewhere along the line, many of us have accepted the lie that luxury doesn’t come from something Black founded/owned. Unless it's a well-known household brand, we are hesitant to invest our hard-earned money into such businesses. These notions may not be spoken out loud, but they're reflected in our spending habits and in the dismissive attitudes we can show towards Black brands that aim to offer us a luxury experience.
I’m sorry sister, but not everything Black-owned is going to be in the $10-15 USD price range — and it’s no shade if that’s what your audience expects + can afford, but there are some who also don’t mind spending $30 + up on a product to achieve the most optimal results. Just because the $ is higher doesn’t make it any less or more accessible as well.
These are all things I connected with Essence Iman over. Founder of luxe lifestyle brand Thee Established. Ahead, we get into all things Black Owned + Boughie. It’s clear that Iman and Thee Established were NOT left off of Bad + Boughie. (IYKYK.)
Keep reading on for more.
BoyBeat: What was your inspiration behind the naming convention of your brand?
Essence Iman: I started off knowing that I did NOT want a brand with a skincare sounding name. I wanted it to be left up to interpretation. I needed it to feel like a members only club; elusive and like beauty as an act of rebellion. I loved unconventional brand names, 2 word names with an article in front of the noun… I think establishing (no pun intended) the sentiment allowed me to get more granular about word choice.
Sitting in silence, the word ‘established’ simply just came to me and I immediately felt attracted to it. Like I knew I needed to create something with that word. I added ‘the’ because ‘established’ didn’t sound like it could be left alone. Together it sounded so sickening to me. I was just so excited, like ‘The Established’ is NASTY – it’s looking you up and down, honey. I fell in love with how much it implied, effortlessly. Plus, I knew no one would think the founder was a black girl. I’ll admit I got a kick out of wanting to play on people’s prejudices.
It’s funny because people ask me all the time why I didn’t name the brand after myself (Essence) and I think - how tasteless and banal do you think I am? You couldn’t pay me a million dollars to be that cheesy.
BB: When it comes to Black luxury brands, you have a distinct style that sits with the heritage + mainstream brands of today (The Byredo's and etc) where did you pick up the minimalist yet luxe eye?
EI: What a compliment! I'm very keen on living a lifestyle surrounded by beauty and quality, so the vision just sort of comes naturally. I always abided by this, even when I was younger and it lived outside of my physical reality-wanting to live like the Kennedy’s while growing up in the hood. The girls could not take me. I literally used to get bullied because people thought I was so bougie and delusional. I couldn’t help it! I just always had a keen eye for luxury and taste! But I’m also a Taurus, to be fair.
I think my eye became more refined during college. I went to The New School in New York's Greenwich Village and studied alongside some of the most cultured, talented and artistic peers. This was an environment where everyone around you was constantly creating, so you got more in touch with your own by osmosis. I also had a lot of international friends, which I think broadened the lens. My best friend was the daughter of an Asian diplomat and she’d take me to the most exclusive places downtown that we had no business being underage. During a school break I’d take a trip to stay at a friend’s in Europe. This period in my life really nurtured my appetite for slowness, minimalism and quality and inspired me to hone in on my creativity from a more worldly perspective. I think naturally, this bled into my work in developing and designing The Established for the luxury consumer gaze.
BB: What are some of the biggest hurdles you've faced and overcome as a woman-founded brand?
For one, people think they can play with you. Thinking you’ll accept $10k for 2% of your total revenues, things like that. Men giving you the worst advice thinking they’re saying something. “Have you heard of affiliate marketing?” Like shut up, bro.
And on that note, as much as I believed this did not happen IRL like that, I've actually had a potential investor take advantage of a meeting by trying to sleep with me (not that I would have with that troll, but it wasn’t even a lot of money!). I’ve had men pretend to be investors to have access to me. It’s unfortunate that the majority of capital is deployed by these lunatics!
I just think all in all as a female founder you have to be that much more mindful in every area, even in your friendships and the people you network with. People have all kinds of motivations once you look like you’re doing something in the world.
BB: Where do you see The Established in the next 3-5 years?
EI: I see a brand refresh, incorporating some more sustainability. I also look forward to modifying our skincare assortment and make it even more targeted [towards body]. I also see the brand becoming more lifestyle. I see much wider retail distribution, specifically within Sephora and the department stores overseas - I have a hunch the brand would do really well in Asia. The Established will be a globally ubiquitous body care and lifestyle brand.
I do feel like we’re building something really longevous. But by the 5 year mark, I’ll be long ready to bask in the fruits of my labor. Hopefully the business would have been acquired and I can sit my ass down, kick my feet up and say “that was fun.”
BB: For someone curious to try the brand, what is the number one best-seller or a product you'd recommend from your portfolio?
EI: Absolutely, our Elixa Bath and Body Serum. I call it the teacher's pet, because I have a natural bias towards it, haha. Not only is it the first product I conceived and developed, it was the body essential that completely transformed my body care gripes (specifically with persistent dryness and KP) and inspired the rest of the brand to follow. It definitely has a special place in my heart and is the product I think is most representative of the brand. It is also our most awarded (Cosmopolitan, Into the Gloss and New Beauty).